Built in 1865, this little church nestled in the hills of Northern New Mexico is sacred to Northern New Mexicans. Each Easter a pilgrimage takes place from Santa Fe to Chimayo to this holy site where it said to have holy dirt that has healing powers. This isn't just a Catholic thing, Protestants and Catholics and many tourists trek to this remote village to visit
El Santuario de Chimayo daily.
All are welcomed to pass through the church or stay for mass. The altar is similar to many found in the Spanish churches of New Mexico with wooden carvings of santos from floor to ceiling amidst the small adobe walled church. Walking up to the altar there is a doorway to the left. There are two rooms one filled with crutches, wheelchairs, and pictures and the other with a small pit in the ground. This pit, carved from the stone floor, holds the dirt to have sacred healing powers. It has been blessed by the Father and people scoop it up to take it to the sick or kneel on the stone to rub the dirt on their ailments. It is a tranquil spot where prayer is abundant, voices are kept to a murmur, it is a true sanctuary. It is with this back drop that I must preface our Santuario experience.
On many occasions our family has gathered for meals at
Rancho de Chimayo, a must for anyone visiting the Santuario. There are so many places that I've yet to take Mr. Rogers to and with Jack and Lincoln's interest in California Missions we thought the Santuario would make for a perfect outing to celebrate my mom's birthday. Lunch was fabulous, Mr. Rogers experienced his first stuffed sopapillas smothered in delicious New Mexico red chile only to finish it off with the traditional sopapilla and honey...mmm, a true New Mexican treat.
We headed to the Santario, less than a mile away, and began to walk the grounds with my parents and the kids. Through the Santuario we walk, up to the altar and into the rooms to the left. I had Maggie in my arms and decided against squishing into the teeny tiny room where the holy dirt lay.


Directing Mr. Rogers and the boys into the room mostly concerned about Mr. Rogers bumping his head. I note some women scooping holy dirt into containers but what catches my eye is Jack who all of a sudden tumbles into the pit! Absorbed in the crutches and other odd relics around the room he seemed oblivious to the fact that there was a hole in the middle of the room. Unsuspectingly he takes his tumble, it is as though he is having a bout with quicksand as well because that kid just couldn't get himself out of the pit. Holy dirt was pouring into his shoes and no doubt he probably took out a hand or two in who were in the process of collecting this sacred dirt. The look on his face was sheer terror and Mr. Rogers had to swoop down and pull that sand loaded kid out of the holy dirt. At this point all I can do is hide my chuckling in the other room, really I should have been upset and embarrased but I couln't help but find the humour in it all. We trekked to one of the holiest sites in New Mexico and my son biffs it right smack in the dab of it all! It is a good thing my little Spanish Catholic grandma wasn't there because I'm sure she would have yanked Jack by his scalp out of that pit as she cried "aye, dios mio" and then made him do "Hail Mary's" all the way back to Santa Fe despite the fact that we're Protestants.
A picture of the pit moments after a shell shocked Jack was retrieved. Can you see that someone is already back at work collecting the dirt again?
The drive from Santa Fe to the Santuario is a wonderful outing only complete with a meal from Rancho de Chimayo. One could easily make this a side excusion on the way to Taos from Santa Fe. Beautiful
Georgia O'Keefe country surrounds this area and whenever I make the drive from Santa Fe to Taos, along the Rio Grande, it feels as though I'm traveling through one of her pictures. With a copy of
Bless Me Ultima it captures the Spanish culture of Northern New Mexicans perfectly.